| P – 47 THUNDERBOLT | 0201 |
Technical data:
| wing span: | 830 mm |
| length: | 710 mm |
| wing area: | 12,4 dm2 |
| propulsion: | 280, 300,330, MPJ AC series electric motors |
| weight: | 360 — 420 g |
| controls: | elevator, ailerons, motor |
Congratulations on purchasing this scale model, depicting the Republic P-47D Thunderbolt, a WW 2 fighter.The actual aeroplane was created according to the specification issued by the USAAC technical command, using the lessons learned during the first period of the WW 2. The semi-finished XP-44 lightly armed, lightly armoured interceptor project was soon completely rebuilt to the XP-47B. The new machine, powered by the eighteen-cylinder double row Pratt & Whitney R-2800 radial, with a turbo-supercharger, had, despite its weight around 6 tonne, became an excellent, yet heaviest single-engine fighter of the WW 2. Its prototype took to air for the first time on May 6th, 1941. It joined the combat over Europe in spring 1943. It was the first US-built fighter that provided USAAF with a degree of superiority over the enemy fighters. It bore the brunt of the most difficult period of air offensive against Nazi Germany and imperial Japan. Its significant feature was the measure of protection it provided to its pilots. It was apparently the safest fighter of the period. Due to its aerodynamic finesse, weight and sturdiness the P-47 could follow enemy into any dive he could muster, or, vice versa, use its superior diving speed to evade enemy attack. Besides that it provided an extreme measure of protection in dangerous strafing attacks as well as in an eventual crash landing. The P-47 Thunderbolts were series-produced in the B to N versions. The D-25 was its first variant with a full-vision bubble canopy. The M version was the "sprint" T'bolt with max. speed over 700 km/h, the N had a new wing of greater span and more fuel for the distances of the Pacific.
Altogether 15 329 of P-47's were built, 12 600 of that number of the D variant. Their pilots flew 546 000 missions, destroying over 7 000 aircraft, 9 000 steam engines and 6 000 vehicles. The most successful P-47 Thunderbolt unit was the 56th Fighter Group of the 8th Air Force, USAAF, that destroyed 1006 aircraft with 128 losses to their own numbers. The Thunderbolts served, besides the USA, in Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, China, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, France, Guatemala, Iran, Italy, Mexico, Peru, Turkey, UK and the USSR.
The supplied set of decals enables you to build one of the three versions of markings:
I. P- 47D, Pengie IV, HV-M, 419718,
a penguin on a red background, pilot Cpt. Boleslaw Gladych
II. P- 47M, Pengie V, HV-M, 421127,
a penguin on a white background, pilot Cpt. Boleslaw Gladych
III. P- 47M, HV-Z, 421108,
Polish checker (red field at top right), pilot Cpt. Witold Lanowski, 61st FS/ 56 FG, Boxted, England, November 1944
Literature:
Literature: Martin Velek, Valeriy Roman: Republic P-47 Thunderbolt, MBI, Prague, 1997
Adam Jarski, Robert Michulec: P-47 Thunderbolt, AJ Press, 1996
The model is not suited for complete beginners, but its control with ailerons and elevator would not bring problems to any modeller experienced enough with elevator/rudder control models, e.g. slow-flyers. The flight qualities of this model of the P-47D Thunderbolt are close to that of much larger model, i.e. are more docile, and provide fine as well as colourful experience in the air.
The model kit you have bought has several noteworthy features:
- It is almost ready to fly: you have to apply decals, install the propulsion unit and the RC equipment. You can utilise the kit's box as the transport and storage container for finished model.
- The model is moulded from extruded polystyrene foam with a harder surface layer, making the model more resistant to surface damage. All exposed places are also covered by plastic reinforcements. This strength of the material used enabled to design a very light yet strong model, the danger of damage in normal operation is very low.
- When designing this model the maximum attention was devoted to its aerodynamic layout (e.g. the semi-symmetrical wing section, the symmetrical horizontal tail section), ensuring high aerodynamic finesse, with the resulting wide band of operational speeds and docile flying characteristics typical for large models.
- The range of proven power units offered enables to build a scale model of flight performance corresponding with that of the best slow flyers, as well as with the fully aerobatic models.
- To control the model you need the RC equipment suitable for controlling the slow-flyers - it would enable you to fly majority of the aerobatic figures (with the possible exception of those that require the rudder control).
Finishing the model
It is a simple task, yet we ask you to read and follow the subsequent text thoroughly.
The decals
The model is sprayed with colours making up its basic camouflage scheme. The codes and markings are the waterslide decals. Their primary advantage is the negligible weight and a minimum risk of damaging the model during application. They require, however, an attention and care. Therefore we recommend that you follow the subsequent tips:
- The larger decals that are to fit to a double-curvature surface need to be cut radially at several places around the circumference.
- Dip the decal cut-out from the sheet with its backing paper in a lukewarm water for about 5
- seconds, then leave it to soak through on a flat non-absorbent surface (glass plate etc.);
- You may increase the adhesion of the dried decal to model substantially by applying wallpaper glue to the area where the decal will be placed. However, ensure in advance that the glue would not create blotches or lumps when it dries - this is why the white (PVA) glues are usually not suitable.
- Once the backing paper is sufficiently soaked (i.e. the decal slides easily on it), slide the decal over the edge of the backing paper about 5 mm, hold it with your fingers in required place on the part to be decorated and pull the paper from beneath the decal. If the decal does not slide easily enough, apply some more water around it with a paintbrush; it will help you to replace the wrongly-applied decal, too.
- Using a soft cloth, carefully smooth out the decal, gently squeezing the excess glue and any air bubbles from the centre to its outer edge. Do not squeeze out all of the glue! Once the glue dries, i.e. in a few hours, the decals would shrink somewhat and adhere snugly to the surface.
- The model could be oversprayed with a thin layer of transparent gloss or semi-matte (avoid spraying the transparent cockpit canopy) acrylic or synthetic varnish to suit your ideas regarding the surface finish of the real aeroplane. It is absolutely necessary to check that the varnish does not attack the polystyrene foam. To keep the weight down, spray varnish very sparingly.
A) RC equipment
The general layout of the electrical connection is on the diagram. We strongly suggest that you assemble and connect the RC equipment outside the model and check its function. Observe the recommendations of manufacturers as listed in the directions of use for the respective components. Check the compatibility of the receiver with the crystal used - the over-the-land range test of the transmitter, albeit it may seem unnecessary nowadays, may save you much much more than it would cost…
B) Power unit
- Power unit 1 is attached to the motor bulkhead by three screws 2.
- The engine cowling 3 could be tack-glued to the fuselage by the cyano glue or by a piece of adhesive tape.
- Slide the propeller back plate 4 to the gearbox shaft, install the propeller 5 to the back plate, the washer 6, (use the washer from the kit, not the one from the power unit, ensure the correct orientation) and tighten the complete assembly with the nut 7.
- Snap the propeller spinner 8 to the washer 6. When snapping the spinner on, hold fast the propeller, not the model.
- Check that the propeller rotates freely, without binding between rotary and stationary parts.
C) Aileron control
The aileron servo should be powerful enough to overcome the friction in the control bowdens - we recommend to utilise a servo of more than the 0,15 Nm minimum torque.
- Place the connector 9 into hole in the servo single arm, at the distance of about 11 mm from the axis of servo arm rotation. If the openings in the servo arm are too large, it is better to drill new ones of 1 mm diameter rather than bushing-out the old ones.
- Insert the control rods to the connector, first one, then the other (fig. C1).
- Insert the servo into the wing opening and place it so that once the servo arm is inserted on its shaft (the axis of the servo arm should be parallel with the longitudinal axis of the servo) the control rods are well aligned and that the set-screw 10 could be tightened. (fig. C2). If the wing opening is too small for the servo, open it up carefully to the dimensions required, using a sharp modelling knife - the servo should fit the opening with excess place around it.
- Secure the servo against movement by applying a thin layer of PU glue or Epoxy around the perimeter of the wing opening - in case a servo needs to be removed it is easy to pry it free without damage.
- Tighten lightly the screw 10 so that the aileron trailing edges would be some 1,5 to 2,0 millimetres above the wing trailing edge. (fig. C3).
- Check function of ailerons: they should be at the maximum deflection of about 10 mm at the maximum deflection of the control stick (fig. C3) - check the correct sense of their deflection! If they are not moving correctly, and you could not program the servo throw by the RC set programming, change as necessary either the position of the control rods in the control circuit arms or of the connector on the servo arm. Only then secure the connector against letting loose by the spring washer 12 inserted from below (the servo arm is outside the model, using a thin tube such as the ball point pen refill), and then secure the servo arm itself by the screw 11. Readjust the correct position of the ailerons and tighten the screw 10. Secure the control rods against disconnecting from the control arm by gluing a piece of tubing onto them.
- You can secure the connector, gluing a piece of tubing instead of spring washer 12. If the tube is glued well, this simple method works very well, in case the disassembly would be needed the tube would be simply cut away.
D) Elevator control
For the elevator control a servo of the minimum 0,07 Nm torque is required.
- The elevator servo is glued to the rear fuselage bulkhead using CA or Epoxy glue. Place servo so that its output shaft is further (more distant) from the bulkhead.
- Insert the connector 9 into the hole some 9 mm distant from the axis of rotation of the shaft of the single-sided servo arm. Drill a new hole if necessary, insert a 6mm long piece of plastic tubing 13 into the hole in the connector. Slide the assembly onto the control rod and place the arm on the servo shaft so that it would be about perpendicular to the elevator control rod (see fig. D1). Glue the elevator control rod outer tube to the former.
- Tighten slightly the connector bolt 10 - the servo arm and the elevator should be in neutral position.
- Check that the maximum deflection (throw) of the servo corresponds to the elevator deflection of about 10 mm each way (fig. D2) - check that the sense of elevator deflection is correct and corresponds to the sense of movement of the control stick! If the deflection is not correct, and you can not program the servo by RC set programming, change as necessary either the position of the control rod in the control lever, or the position of the connector on the servo arm. Only then secure the connector with the flexible washer 12, slid on from below (the servo arm should be outside of the model). Secure the servo arm by tightening the screw 14. Set the elevator to correct position and tighten the bolt 10. Secure the control rod in the control lever by gluing a piece of tubing onto it (fig. D3).
E) Model assembly
To facilitate the transport and storage, the model is designed to be disassembled. Both parts of the fuselage are connected, using bolts attached to the rear part's bulkhead; their heads keep both parts together, once the stems of the bolts fit in the groove of the front fuselage part's bulkhead. The tightness of the bolts has to be adjusted by guessing, both parts should hold together by friction only once they are inserted. It is possible to slightly tighten the upper bolts once the fuselage is assembled and to loosen them before disassembly. The bottom bolt has to be adjusted precisely due to its inaccessibility. When assembling and disassembling, exert the proper force to the places where the fuselage walls are supported by the bulkheads inside. Otherwise the polystyrene would soon get mangled or even broken. When assembling the fuselage avoid also holding it far from the joint / it could get broken in two!!!
Placement of individual parts of the propulsion unit and of the RC equipment is apparent from the drawing (fig.E). The receiver is attached to the wing top surface by the self-adhesive Velcro strip. In the same way the batteries are attached to the support plate 15. You can secure them further with rubber rings. The support plate 15 is glued to the fuselage longerons using the PU glue. Establish the proper position of the plate with batteries in place by preliminarily balancing the fully equipped model.
The normal access to the model is provided by removing the canopy 16.
If you have decided to build the M version (colour scheme II and III) glue the fin strake 17 to the fuselage top decking. It is advisable to sand the edges to come into contact with the fuselage from inside of the strake to ensure that the strake would fit to the fuselage and fin without unsightly gap.
F) Flying the model
Balance the complete assembled model by shifting the position of battery pack along the base plate. The prescribed position of the CG is marked on the wing bottom surface by transverse lines on the undercarriage doors (fig. F). When balancing the model, support it with your fingers, as sharp items may damage the polystyrene foam. The well-balanced model stays level or slightly nose-down. Mark the correct position of battery pack on the base plate - it is best done at home; also check the RC equipment - i.e. the sense and magnitude of deflection (throw) of the ailerons and elevator and the function of the controller.
First, glide-launch the model over taller grass to cushion its landings and check its reaction to controls. If you can, set the non-linearity on the transmitter to 50 % both for the ailerons and the elevator. The powered flight will differ according to the power unit - the "280" will make the start just a bit more lively than with a slow-flyer, the AC motor will try to jerk the model from your hand- be ready for a pronounced torque from the propeller in slow flight when the controls are less effective. Once trimmed in powered flight, try the marginal regimes - especially the slow flight and stall behaviour of the model. If you have ailerons rigged as per the instructions and if you pull-up slowly, the model should be controllable by ailerons with the elevator in full up-position. Once you become accustomed to the model, you may return the ailerons to normal zero setting.
You will soon find that if you want to fly the Thunderbolt, you need not to wait for the calm weather. The model handles well a broad range of speeds, behaving like a much larger aeroplane.
We wish you many happy landings.
Alfa Model. Ltd.
A list of parts and tools necessary for finishing the model, that are not supplied in the kit:
- Polyurethane (PU) or five-minute Epoxy glue, CA glue
- Modelling knife, screwdrivers, transparent self-adhesive tape, 1 mm diameter drill bit.
- Power unit with controller and propeller, battery pack etc.; the tested recommended combinations are listed below.
- At least a three-channel RC set with two micro servos (up to 10 g weight) and a miniature receiver (up to 10 g weight).
- Extension cable (150 mm) to attach the controller to the RC receiver.
- Battery charger.
Video:
| take off | 487 kB |
| some of acrobatics | 939 kB |
| landing | 953 kB |
| whole | 645 kB |
